Pickleball Blocking: End Pop-Ups & Control the Kitchen

If you’ve ever been parked at the kitchen line feeling confident… then suddenly eaten alive by a drive that turns into a floating pop-up, you’re not alone. I lived there for a while. I had “fast hands,” but my blocks still sat up like a gift basket, and bangers happily cashed it in.

The breakthrough for me was simple (and humbling): stop trying to win the block. Learn to absorb. When blocking clicks, your opponents start feeling like they’re hitting into a mattress instead of a hard surface, all their pace, none of the payoff.

A lot of what’s below was sharpened through drilling with my son and pickleball coach AJ Parfait, plus studying top coaching breakdowns (including Marko Grgic) and then stress-testing it in real games.

How to Stop Pop-Ups and Win Hands Battles

This guide is your full, no-mystery blueprint for pickleball blocking: what blocking actually is, why pop-ups happen, the two block types you need (and when to use them), the drills that make your hands feel “early” instead of “late,” and a quick gear section if your paddle keeps twisting on contact.

Who this helps:

• Players who pop up blocks when facing hard drives
• Doubles players getting bullied in hand battles at the kitchen
• Anyone who wants a calmer, more repeatable defensive response (without swinging harder)

Your Blocking Blueprint

1. What “blocking” really means in pickleball
2. The 5 Fundamentals: grip, face, stance, contact, finish
3. Step-by-step: execute a perfect block (quick checklist)
4. Punch block vs soft reset: when to use each
5. Blocking drives vs speedups vs body attacks
6. Why you’re popping up blocks (and the fast fixes)
7. Drills: build quiet hands (plus no-ball training)
8. Gear stability: twist weight and lead tape
9. Troubleshooting: what to change when a block keeps failing
10. FAQs

1) What “Blocking” Really Means in Pickleball

A block is a defensive volley where you use the opponent’s pace instead of adding your own. Think: minimal motion, stable face, low return. The best blocks feel boring… and they make your opponent feel like they’re hitting into something soft and dead.

Blocking isn’t about being passive. It’s about being efficient. If you can keep the ball low off their speedup, you steal their advantage and force them to hit again.

2) The 5 Fundamentals That Decide Every Block

1) Grip Pressure (soft enough to absorb)

Aim for roughly 2–3 out of 10 in grip pressure on blocks, firm enough to control the face, loose enough that your hand can absorb pace. If the number scale feels abstract, use the “egg” cue: hold the paddle like you’re cradling an egg, secure enough not to drop it, soft enough not to crack it.

2) Paddle Face Angle (slightly open, not flared)

Most pop-ups happen because the face is too open. A good block face is only slightly open, enough to clear the net, not enough to launch.

3) Stance + Ready Position (hands early)

Stand athletic and slightly forward, with your paddle out in front at navel height. If your paddle is back by your hip, you’ll always feel late.

4) Contact Point (out front, before it dips)

Your best blocks happen when you contact the ball in front of your body. If you let it get into your chest or behind your lead foot, you’ll reflex-lift it.

5) Finish (quiet, short, stable)

Quiet hands is the goal. A block is not a swing. Your paddle should feel like it “catches” the ball and lets it go, a true catch-and-release. The more follow-through you add, the more you turn a block into a pop-up machine.

3) Step-by-Step: Execute a Perfect Block (Quick Checklist)

1. Get your paddle out front before the opponent attacks.
2. Set a soft grip (2–3/10).
3. Keep your base low so you can absorb instead of react upright.
4. Close the face slightly (don’t flare it open).
5. Meet the ball early — out in front.
6. Let the pace rebound — no swing, no shove.
7. Aim low (feet or kitchen) so they can’t attack the next ball.

A helpful mental model: your paddle is a soft wall, a basket, or even a mattress. You’re not trying to “hit” the ball, you’re trying to absorb and redirect.

4) Punch Block vs Soft Reset: When to Use Each

The Soft Reset (your rally saver)

Use this when the incoming ball is heavy, dipping, or you’re slightly late. The goal is not to win the point, it’s to take heat off and land a safe ball that forces them to hit again.

• Even looser grip
• Minimal motion
• Drop into the kitchen or low middle

The Punch Block (compact counter, not a swing)

Use this when the ball is chest high, you’re early, and you can meet it cleanly. It’s a small forward “jab” that keeps the ball low and fast without opening the pop-up door.

• Use it when you’re early and stable
• Knuckles forward: think “knuckles to target” so the paddle face stays flat and doesn’t flare open
• Short motion, no big swing
• Often best to target feet or middle

Simple rule: If you’re early, you can punch. If you’re late, you must reset.

4) Blocking in Real Game Situations

Dipping drives at the kitchen line (the hardest ball to make look easy)

• Get low and stay low: knees bent, chest quiet, and keep your eyes closer to net height (standing tall makes the dip harder to track).
• Reach forward: contact it before it falls too far below net level.
• Choose reset over ego: if it’s dipping hard or you’re late, absorb and drop it instead of punching.
• Default to stability: many players are steadier on a compact backhand block for these.

Blocking hard drives

Against heavy pace, the worst thing you can do is tighten up and “fight” the ball. Keep your grip soft and let your paddle absorb.

Blocking speedups from the kitchen

These are faster but usually less heavy. If you’re early, a punch block can punish them. If you’re late, absorb and reset.

Body attacks (torso and shoulders)

A backhand-ready posture protects your torso. Your job is not to dodge, it’s to be stable. Catch and redirect down, not up.

5) Why Your Blocks Pop Up (and the Fast Fixes)

Mistake 1: Death grip

Tight grip = trampoline effect. The ball rebounds upward instead of dying.

• Fix: soften to 2–3/10 (“egg” soft)

Mistake 2: Open face

If your face is too open, you’re literally aiming upward.

• Fix: close the face slightly; keep it stable

Mistake 3: Late contact

Late blocks force an emergency lift.

• Fix: paddle out front early; meet it sooner

Mistake 4: Follow-through

Follow-through turns a block into a swing. Swings create pop-ups.

• Fix: quiet hands, minimal finish

6) Drills That Actually Build Blocking Skill

Rule for every drill: whenever you can, aim your block at your opponent’s feet. Feet are the most unattackable zone because they force the next shot upward.

Drill 1: The Double Hit Volley Drill (soft-hands absorption)

This is the fastest way I know to teach your hands what “absorb” actually feels like. Stand at the kitchen line across from a partner. Your partner feeds a controlled volley and you catch it on your paddle face, let it bounce once on the paddle, then volley it back over the net.

• Grip: “egg” soft (2–3/10)
• Paddle face: stable and only slightly open
• Target: land it low — ideally at their feet or short into the kitchen

Make it measurable: count consecutive clean double-hits and try to break your record.

Drill 2: The Human Wall Drill (dink → surprise speed-up)

Start with a normal dink rally at the kitchen line. Only your partner is allowed to speed up. Every time they attack, you must respond with a quiet hands block that lands low (then immediately return to dinking).

• Protect your torso with a backhand-ready posture
• Don’t swing, absorb and redirect
• Target: their feet, middle, or a soft drop into the kitchen

Drill 3: The Banger Defense Drill (baseline pace → kitchen reset)

You stay at (or just behind) the kitchen line while your partner drives hard from deeper in the court. Your job is to take heat off the ball with a soft reset block and make them hit “one more.”

• Prioritize control over aggression
• Absorb pace with a soft hand and minimal finish
• Target: short into the kitchen, or at their feet if the ball is higher

Drill 4: Shadow Rallying (no ball, no panic)

No partner? No problem. Stand in your blocking stance and rehearse the micro-bounce and shoulder rotation without a ball. You’re training the movement pattern so it shows up automatically when the drive is actually 45 mph.

• Start low, stay low (athletic base)
• Hands out front, tiny “catch-and-release” finish
• Do 3 rounds of 30–45 seconds, then rest and repeat

Bonus: Wall Reps for Quiet Hands

If you have access to a practice wall, stand close and block rapid rebounds with minimal motion. Your goal is to keep the paddle stable and the grip soft while the ball comes fast.

7) Gear Stability: Twist Weight, Lead Tape, and Why Your Paddle Might Feel “Flimsy”

Sometimes your technique is fine, but your paddle still gets knocked around on off-center contact. That’s usually a stability problem more than a “hands” problem. In paddle nerd terms: twist weight.

Why twist weight matters for blocks

• Higher twist weight means the paddle resists twisting when the ball hits near the edge.
• Less twisting = less face change at contact = fewer accidental pop-ups.
• Tradeoff: more perimeter weight can feel slower in fast hands battles if you overdo it.

Lead tape: the quickest stability tune-up

Adding a small amount of weight toward the perimeter (edges) can increase stability and reduce torque on blocks. Do it slowly (tiny changes matter) and stop the moment your hands start feeling late.

• Best use case: your paddle twists on blocks or you feel flutter on off-center contact.
• Common placements: small strips on the sides (perimeter) or lower corners; some players also like the throat for a milder change.
• Goal: steadier face so you can keep your grip soft without losing control.

If you want a dedicated guide: Adding Lead Tape to Your Paddle.

8) Troubleshooting: What to Change When Blocking Keeps Failing

If your blocks keep floating high…

• Loosen your grip (2–3/10, “egg” soft)
• Reduce follow-through (quiet hands)
• Close the face slightly

If your blocks keep dumping into the net…

• Open the face slightly
• Contact the ball earlier
• Make sure you’re not punching when you’re late (use a soft reset instead)

If you feel “late” on everything…

• Move your ready paddle out front
• Adopt a slight backhand tilt to protect your torso
• Start lower (knees bent) so you can absorb and react

If your paddle twists or flutters on blocks…

• Prioritize earlier contact (out front)
• Check your grip isn’t too loose to control the face
• Consider a small stability tune-up (lead tape / higher twist weight)

9) Mini Recap: Blocking Must-Haves

• Hands early: paddle out front at navel height.
• Backhand bias: a slight backhand tilt protects your torso and speeds up your response.
• Grip 2–3/10: “egg” soft, firm enough to hold the face, loose enough to absorb.
• Quiet hands: minimal follow-through, let the rebound do the work.
• Low targets: feet or kitchen beats “hard” almost every time.
• Two answers only: punch block when early, reset when late.

10) Pickleball Blocking FAQs

If you want to go deeper into the hand battle side of defense, you’ll also like: The Pickleball Triangle Rule.